In recent years, the island of Combu, in the state of Pará, has become a tourism hotspot, where people can know the river and riverside communities in the region. But residents complain that the government’s lack of attention to the rise in the number of tourists in the area is contributing to increased violence, environmental degradation and, consequently, a shortage of products essential for extractive activities and the local way of life.
Combu Island is part of Belém’s riverside area. As one of the city’s main tourist routes, it will certainly be a destination for many people attending COP30, which will be held in November in the capital of Pará.
Combu community leaders argue that the municipal and state governments will be “embarrassed” if, in the middle of the climate conference, visitors see that the residents of one of the main tourist routes in the capital of Pará deal with a lack of drinking water and the negative impacts of extractive activities.
“The island’s residents have historically lived off extractivism and, depending on the period of the year, they dedicate themselves to growing food. When it’s not açaí season, they fish for shrimp or fish. However, with the increase in the flow of boats on the island, particularly in the last seven years, both shrimp and fish have disappeared, and it’s dangerous for river dwellers to fish,” says Iva Nascimento, president of the Piriquitaquara Igarapé Residents’ Association.
According to her, the high-speed navigation of speedboats, jet skis and other larger boats has already caused several accidents and threatens small-scale fisherpeople who use smaller boats. “On weekends, we can’t go out with our small boats because we could end up on the bottom. And we only see the Port Authority when expensive boats are involved in accidents. Some of the island’s residents have been removing the engine’s exhaust so that the speedboat makes more noise. Today, the elderly, children and sick residents find it very difficult to rest in a place that used to be calm,” she says.
Iva admits that the increase in tourism has also brought economic benefits, such as the creation of cooperatives and new businesses owned by residents themselves. However, researcher Thainá Guedelha Nunes confirmed that one of the social consequences of these changes on the island has been the work of some residents, who have gone from working exclusively or mainly in extractive activities to transporting tourists in boats, working in restaurants or opening their own businesses. Nunes wrote the doctoral thesis, Por um turismo decolonial, reflexões antropológicas a partir da turistificação da ilha do Combu, (“Towards decolonial tourism: anthropological reflections on the touristification of Combu Island”, in a rough translation) published in 2023.
Guedelha argues that tourism in Combu should respect residents’ role in social, political, economic, and health matters. Otherwise, tourism could become a new form of colonization. To this end, the island’s residents and entrepreneurs advocate that the government should invest in public policies to encourage the sustainable management of these businesses. “It would bring back peace for us, more security. Riverside residents need guidance so they don’t sell their land to entrepreneurs from other locations. Unless these activities are regulated, the problems tend to increase,” argues Charles Gerson, founder of Espaço Igara, a reference for visitors to discover the way of life of local communities.
Climate emergency and erosion
Combu Island has five communities all within an Environmental Protection Area, also known in Brazil as APA. Most enterprises tourists visit are located on Combu Creek and on the banks of the Guamá River. Independently of the exact location in Combu, all the island’s residents face the impacts of tourism, as well as the lack of drinking water and the precariousness of other public policies, such as those aimed at health and public safety. On the other hand, those who depend exclusively on extractive activities to survive already feel the lack of seasonal products other than fish and shrimp, such as açaí, andiroba and honey.
“This year we’re having trouble extracting andiroba oil: We’ve noticed that the longer summer, reduced rainfall and pollution in the rivers are affecting more than just andiroba trees. We’ve noticed a shortage of açaí and other fruits too,” says Iracema Soares, vice president of the Combu Extractive Women’s Association. According to her, her parents, who used to fish for shrimp in the açaí off-season, have already noticed that the delicacy is much harder to find. All these impacts affect families, especially the most vulnerable ones.
“We already need to buy drinking water, both to drink and cook with, because river water isn’t good for that. Now, we need to buy the products we used to have in front of our houses or yards, like açaí and shrimp. And even in houses that still have açaí, we’ve noticed a lack of people to pick it, because people are working on other activities,” Iracema says.
The erosion of the creek banks, due to the increase in the flow of boats, as well as scaring away rivers and destroying the areas where shrimps stay during the first stage of their lives, has also caused houses and trees to fall, a constant threat to the boats themselves. In general, only economically structured families and businesses build protection on the slopes.
In a statement, the Brazilian Navy said that naval inspectors are monitoring the waterways around the city of Belém, checking whether boat drivers are complying with the law. It also pointed out that there had been no significant increase in boat-related accidents. Read the full statement:
The Brazilian Navy clarifies that the Eastern Amazon Port Captaincy (CPAOR, in Portuguese), located in Belém, is the Brazilian Maritime Authority Agent responsible for the Combu Island region.
Every day, the CPAOR’s Naval Inspectors inspect the waterways around the city of Belém, through naval inspections and vessel surveys. The inspections check whether boat drivers comply with legislation, national and international acts and standards that regulate maritime and river traffic (Waterway Traffic Safety Law).
Combu Island, one of the most popular tourist areas in Belém, is one of the focuses of inspections by CPAOR’s Naval Inspection teams. Despite the increase in traffic in that region, the number of accidents involving boats has not been significant. In 2023 and 2024, for example, only one accident per year was recorded in this region.
However, to increase the effectiveness of inspections, as well as to curb irregular practices when driving boats, such as speeding and driving under the influence of alcoholic beverages, we advise communities in the region to inform the Captaincy of any situation that may affect the safeguarding of human life or navigation on rivers or may cause environmental pollution, by calling +55 91 3218-3950 or +55 91 98134-3000 (instant messaging app), as well as by emailing [email protected].
